More is more
High footfall and beautiful, creative collections despite the tight situation on all markets.
Along the lines ‘ more is more’ you might get the impression that especially on tricky economic times creativity is booming or things cannot be glamorous and decorative enough at least in fashion. Even the term ‘decadence’ is heard occasionally.
So there is glitter and glamour everywhere, complemented by velvety materials and ornamental prints and embossing. You feel the nostalgia and longing for centuries past, on the one hand, while the future is luring us with innovative high-tech fabrics, on the other.
Anyhow, it is contrasts that currently create the biggest suspense. Matt vs. gloss, velvety and shaggy vs mirror smooth, vintage vs future, nature vs high-tech etc. the real appeal, however, is only in juxtaposing, mixing and combining these contrasts. This calls for a lot of sheer instinct and at times even courage!
At this juncture we should also mention the enormous rise in new, technical materials/fabrics. Here competition with genuine leather is growing. On the other hand, combinations of the two again produce very interesting looks.
Gloss outshines everything – those ‘normal’ smooth Nappas hardly catch the eye any longer. Materials are shining and sparkling, beaming and reflecting things. These luxurious looks are ensured by metallic and prelate materials, pearl effects, lame and novel foils.
Patent – from smooth to crinkle – joins the fray reinforcing this trend.
Special-effect finishing continues to play a prominent role not forgetting brushed leather.
Contrasts come care of velvet! Velour!
Either all plain and simple, soft and refined or embossed. Especially striking are ornamental patterns here from lace to paisleys. Many fabrics are reminiscent of precious Persian rugs and drapery from regal palaces. There are brocades and jacquards in evidence alongside tweeds and boucle.
By the same token, placed embossing and/or embroidery can often be discovered featuring fantasy-type motifs imitating tattoos.
The 3D theme is coming on strong – not least because there are no limits to shape. Anything goes – from bubbles and pyramids to lozenges and irregular imaginative shapes – be it on leather or high-tech material. As a contrast to 3D, die-cutting or laser cutting is also acceptable – though typically for lace-like or floral motifs.
At first sight, everything appears somewhat cool and dark, even slightly mystical but the shiny surfaces bring some light into play.
In the limelight here are the many grey shades from light to dark. Black is, of course, a given and dark blue (Aviator ) gains ground. This dark picture is rounded off by other dark tones such as rich reds (Amarone) or deep dark green and petrol (Emerald).
Incidentally, the metallic interpretations are particularly interesting and new for these dark shades.
But there is no avoiding gold and silver – in all graduated shades and versions including rose gold, brass, copper, platinum and tin.
A beautiful theme that impressively highlights the natural feel of leather comprises all the warm brown shades – from ochre and cayenne to fox and chestnut or mocha.
Even pale, neutral nuances from alpaca to rosewood can be discovered in many collections, above all when very soft and shaggy materials are involved – from velour to fur.
Colour flashes! Time and again a striking highlight: strong pop-art colours for original details. Emojis and bold logos send their regards.
MATERIAL TREND SPACE
CSIR-CLRI co-ordinate the setting up of the Material Trend Space and presented 300 “Leather Colours and Textures” corresponding to the APLF Trends for the Spring Summer 2012 season in association with thirty Indian Tanneries in this area. The materials on display were divided into four different themes:
- Be escapist: which denotes CASUAL ELEGANCE
THE STYLE & Spirit is conjured up by the phrase: Escape to the wilds…
A refined style for chilling out and relaxation but also for top performance. The casual look goes sophisticated and outdoor wear is easily more elegant.
The colours in this Group are True colours, precious inspiration from idealized nature. A subtile harmony between vegetable, mineral and aquatic shades, which tempts us to escape into the wilds. A range of greenish or bluish tones, khaki, grayish tinges, with changing effects.
- Nappa – Goat grain – Suede flesh split – Coloured metallic leather, perlato – Supple vegetable leather – Exotic fish skins: stingray, eel, perch – Carapaces and big reptiles – Glossy short – haired pelts – Coated or double – sided canvas – Irregular, glossy or patent leather plaits – Bamboo.
- Textures: changing, reflective, washed out, faded, tie & dye effects – Mossy effects – Glossy, wet, lacquered finishes – Camouflage net decoration – Traces, imprints, markings and engravings inspired by nature.
- Accessories: semi – precious stones and metals with changing looks, like meteorites – Malachite, agate and lapis lazuli.
- Be daring : which is representative of URBAN GLAMOUR.
The Style & spirit is embodied by: Dare be glamorous day – to – day…
An uninhibited urban theme, which diverts the codes of luxury and seduction in a contemporary spirit.
The Colours in this Group are Punchy red as the pivot of a range that revives timeless colours with the sensuality of charnel, cosmetic accents.
Materials & Textures in this Group are reminiscent of how beautiful classics play at seduction. They comprise:
- Flawless smooth leather – Suede leather – Stiff box leather – Crushed lambskin – Supple upholstery Leather – Patent leather – Double sided fabrics – Sanded mat leather – Slightly glittery leather.
- Satiny effects – Simplistic graphic perforations – Diagonal fringes – 50s scarf prints, floral and narrow stripes. Leather accessories, tassels and covered buckles – Murano – style under.
- Be imaginative: which symbolizes ROMANTIC FUTURE.
The Style and Spirit is summarized as: Imagine the fashion of tomorrow ….
A style combining technical prowess and simplicity with romanticism. A fresh playful, joyous style, full of vitality, for today… but really for tomorrow!
The colors in this Group are an advent – grade range, full of zip and fizz….Colors conjuring up a poetic future in a tangy, diaphanous breeze.
The Materials & Textures display how Technical materials become more sophisticated and romantic. They comprise:
- Very fine leather – Aniline lambskin – Kangaroo – Matt cotton and chintz – Poplin and nylon canvas – PVC, neoprene and rubber – Translucent rubber – Transparent materials – Futuristic net and mesh.
- Lacquered textures – Iridescent changing effects – Puffy, parachute looks – Smooth or crushed papery feel – Summer quilting.
- Accessories: clear, translucent or white painted jewelry – Plastic and perforated crystal – water –coloured mother-of-pearl, moonstone – Feathers and short summer furs.
- Be inventive: reflective TRAVEL MEMORY
The Style & Spirit urge you to Invent whacky fashion codes..
A mix of styles for sheer pleasure. A theme which lures us into urban adventures and trips around the world. The colours in this Group are a range of luminous neutrals and colours that tell of travels and bring back memories. Beiges, khaki, navy blue and ecru brightened with vivid, summery, sunny colours.
The Materials & Textures lean heavily towards Natural materials and the basics go blithely together. The range comprises:
- Washed Nubuck – Heavy suede – Dried leather – Sanded, waxed, patinated suede calf – Grunge leather – Big, broad grains – Matt or washed ostrich – Elephant – Leather cut in scales – Dry scales, grey and sand python – summer pelts, pony – Double – sided parchment – coloured plaited straw linen fabric.
- Broad 70s stripes, mattress ticking – Inspired graphic prints – Dry, rough, irregular or lacerated finishes.
- Primitive – look accessories – Plexiglas ethnic jewelry, belts and rat’s tails – Retro gilt or enameled metal jewelry buckles.
Waterless Chrome Tanning Technology (Kolkata- 2016)
The Waterless Chrome Tanning Technology (WCTT) developed by CSIR-CLRI was demonstrated successfully in two Kolkata tanneries during October 24- 26, 2016. At the tannery of Zia Hides and Skin Agency, the demonstration was held on a batch of 1150 pieces of goat skins having a pelt weight of 900 kg, while the same trial was conducted on 980 pieces of full thickness buffalo hide in Indian Tanning Industries Pvt. Ltd. The pelt weight of this batch was 3600 kg. It was observed that the experimental leathers were comparable with conventionally prepared leathers in respect of wet-blue colour and flatness of the grain, but in respect of fullness, the water less chrome tanned leathers especially those made from buffalo hides were superior to the regular leathers. As regards the tanning process, the actual tanning process was found to be much shorter and far simpler than the conventional process.